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Better Farming

December 2016

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STEVE & ANITA

BUEHNER

The reinvention of a tobacco farm

D

isappointing barely begins to

describe the 2008 tobacco

crop on the rolling hills of

Anita and Steve Buehner’s 180-acre

farm near Waterford in Norfolk

County. The crop was tiny, its quality

poor. “When that crop was done, I

was done,” Steve Buehner says, as he

and Anita recall the now long-ago

season during an interview that takes

place on the patio outside the farm’s

former barn.

Ever since they bought the farm

from Anita’s parents in 1990 the

Buehners had grown tobacco; the

farm had been in tobacco for decades

before that, and the crop had been a

steady presence in both Anita’s and

Steve’s lives growing up.

But public attitudes and govern-

ment policies were changing. By

2008, Anita was already working

off-farm for the first time in her life,

employed at a Simcoe auto parts

plant. There was nothing the couple

wanted more than to work with each

other again on the farm. To do so,

“we had to reinvent ourselves,” says

Steve.

Years earlier, they’d planted

lavender as a trial and wondered if

establishing large-scale production of

the crop was the answer. Attendance

at a Washington State conference

during the fall of 2008 revealed

another possibility: value-added

niche agritourism. “That made much

more sense to us,” Anita says.

They decided to grow cold-hardy

wine grapes too, having also recently

joined a local group intent on

establishing grape and wine produc-

tion in the region.

Anita returned to the farm full-

time in 2009, and the next year the

couple worked feverishly to install

the trellises for the first eight acres of

grape vines. Under the ALUS (Alter-

native Land Use Services) program

they introduced a wetland in the

lowest spot on the farm to accompa-

ny the long corridors of prairie

grasses they had added on either side

by MARY BAXTER

The Buehners grew their last tobacco crop in 2008. By then, the resourceful

couple had found two new crops to grow and began their transition.

Anita and Steve Buehner