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Story Idea?
Better Farming
January 2017
MACHINERY
AT
WORK
shaft. If you still have a dry clutch, check it for free play
and adjustment. Have a look in the access covering. Do
you see any signs of leakage or lots of clutch dust?
Examine the drive shaft going to the front axle. In most
cases, some shielding will need to be removed to gain
access to the universal joints and drive shaft. Check the
splines on both the tractor and the front axle side.
Once all drives to the front axle are inspected, let the
tractor down and repeat the lifting process for each rear
axle final drive and check them for play.
Does your rear axle final drive have an oil reservoir
independent from the transmission? If so, examine it.
Check all wheel hardware for proper torque with the
proper torque wrench – an impact wrench will not do!
On your machine, does the transmission oil serve as
the hydraulic fluid? Or does your tractor have a stand-
alone hydraulic reservoir? In case of the latter, check its
fluid level and oil quality.
Inspect all remote valves for operation. If you have a
pressure gauge handy, you could inspect the pressure and
leakage of each of the valve outlets as well. Don’t forget:
most systems today run around 3,000 PSI of pressure and
you need to be careful when working on the system.
Also check the three-point hitch for operation. Does it
hold the load okay without settling?
Most newer tractors use electronic-controlled valves
but there are still a lot of units with mechanical linkages.
Make sure these linkages go through the cycle without
binding, allow for full control of the valve and go in float
(this is a function where the oil can freely flow through
the valve) as well.
Do you frequently use your three-point hitch to carry
heavy weights or to pull your planter? This hitch gets used
sometimes as much, or more than, the drawbar. So you
need to examine the three-point hitch carefully.
Are all the ball joints in good order? Are the adjust-
ment linkages free from damage? Are the threaded parts
free, without excess play? You should also inspect the top
link closely. Is this link bent or damaged? Does it spin
freely for adjustments?
In the case of either a quick hitch or quick hitch arms,
do their locking mechanisms function properly?
As for the drawbar, is the mount solid? Are the length
and sway adjustment pins in place? Have a good look at
the bottom support. A lot of weight can be carried on the
drawbar and the supports need to be flawless. Also make
sure the holes are not worn in an oblong manner. Is the
drawbar safe for pulling a load?
Most cabs today are the centre of the controlling systems
of the machine, with many electronic controllers mounted
on or near it. Make sure that those locations are free of any
foreign materials that do not belong in the cab. I have seen
many tractors that have draw pins, chains, water bottles
and you name it laying on top of or near expensive control
units. That should not be, but it happens. Now is the time
to take care of the problem and put the collectables in a
more suitable location.
Check to ensure there is no play on the viscous
drive hub on the engine cooling fan drive. Make
sure, too, that the hub is operating properly.
This MFWD input drive shaft has a leaky seal.
Examine the constant velocity drive unit and the
seals on the outboard drive and axle.